“Argentina is a poem, a fervor, a chant, a dirge—and sometimes all these forms at once.”
— Jorge Luis Borges
Joel Bowman with today’s Note From the End of the World: Buenos Aires, Argentina…
“I’m heading to Argentina for a week… a fortnight… a month. What should I do?”
We often receive some version of the above message, asking our advice on what to see and do in this marvelous city and wonderful country.
Being somewhat averse to advice – especially in the giving – we’re always tepid in our response.
“It depends…” we begin, already in over our head…
But after sixteen years here, we have developed a “to see” list of sorts. For the past month, we’ve been hosting a childhood mate from the Old Country (Australia). Here’s a non-exhaustive list of what we’ve shown him. (Feel free to take Notes…)
Strolling Avenida Libertador, including coffee at Caffe Tabac
Marveling at the nearby Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo with a sundowner at Croque Madame cafe
Flâneuring Parque el Rosedale with lunch at Tomate Estación de Sabores
Juicy steaks and fat-bottomed Malbecs at Cabaña Las Lilas in Puerto Madero
Contemplating life at the iconic Cementerio de la Recoleta
Cocktails in our favorite lobby bar at Alvear Palace
More steaks at Jose el Carnicero in Palermo
Dinner and a show at the unforgettable Tango Porteño downtown
A walking tour of a few Bares Notables, including London City, Cafe Tortoni, Palacio Barolo, and Cafè de los Angelitos
A side trip to Patagonia to cruise the lakes district along the famous Ruta 40
Hiking the Bosques Arrayanes near Villa la Angostura for views of Bahía Brava and Bahía Mansa
Stay at Puerto Manzano and enjoy the local fare (lamb, trout and incredible empanadas) at Del Campo, El Muelle and Ponienti Patagonia
An unforgettable night at Teatro Colón with champagne at Petit Colón beforehand and a curry at Delhi Mahal afterward
After dinner cocktails at the “secret” bar Florería Atlantico in Recoleta
Flat whites and medialunas at our local cafes, Birkin, Rotondo, L’harmonie
More coffee and facturas at the iconic Confitería La Ideal
Rembrandt, Rubens, Manet, Van Gogh and more at the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
People watching along Florida Street and the magnificent Galerias Pacifico
Underground cabaret show at Albur followed by drinks at the classic Los Galgos bar
Suits night with the lads at Gardiner Restaurant on the Costanera Norte followed by after party at Moby Dick and after after party at Tequila Club
Parrillas “del barrio” at La Dorita for bife de chorizos and papas a la provençal
Frida Kahlo, Diego Riveira, and Botero at the MALBA followed by an unhurried lunch the newly refurbished Casa Palanti
Antiquing the San Telmo markets with lunch at La Bridaga (where they cut your bife de lomo with a spoon… just because they can)
Blackboard menus at our favorite little “hole in the wall” bistro, Las Pizarras
And now for your Notes From the End of the Week…
Final Notes…
Oh.. and 25. Sunday lunch at “The Church,” also known as Lo de Jesus, in Palermo Soho for bone in ribeye steaks and a wine list we’re still working through, sixteen years on.
Whatever you’re up to this weekend, we hope to have whetted your appetite.
As always, stay tuned for more Notes From the End of the World…
Cheers,
Joel Bowman
P.S. If the above list appears a little “meat heavy” for you… consider that our visiting friend had been a vegetarian for 25 years before this trip. No longer.
