“Buenos Aires is the capital of an empire that never existed.”
~ (attributed to ) French novelist, André Malraux (1901-1976)
Joel Bowman with today’s Note From the End of the World: Buenos Aires, Argentina…
Arching against the crepuscular slate sky, the Palacio del Congreso de la Nación Argentina’s (Palace of the Argentine National Congress) bronze cupola cuts an imposing figure at the top of the windswept Plaza del Congreso.
Lately the site of underwhelming protests, where jilted anti-freedom crusaders recently took to attacking each other for lack of willing combatants, the plaza was all but deserted when we strolled through the historic Balvanera barrio for an impromptu visit earlier in the week.
A few kids kicking a football around… a handful of patrons in the nearby bars and cafés… one fellow sleeping on a park bench, yesterday’s news for a blanket.
Built at the turn of the 20th Century (1898-1906), when the phrase “to be rich like an Argentine” was uttered with a straight face, the neoclassical masterpiece was the brainchild of Italian and Argentine architects.
The quadriga atop the building’s marble entrance – that is, the chariot drawn by four horses abreast – evokes the grandeur of ancient Rome. Unlike her empirical predecessor, however, the figure at the reins is not Victory, but instead Lady Liberty, representing Argentina’s hard won freedom in the Revolutionary War, fought a century prior.
NB: Learn more about Argentina’s Founding Fathers here…
We wandered the sleepy plaza, lined with impressive buildings and adorned with statues from around the world (including a fine replica of Auguste Rodin's iconic The Thinker, which you can see toward the end of the short clip, above). Looking south, we admired the epic Palacio Balcarce, the famous Liceo theater, the broad Avenida de Mayo, cutting a concrete canyon down towards the presidential Casa Rosada.
It is sometimes said of Buenos Aires that it is the “capital of an empire that never existed.”
To which the people of this country, emerging from a dark past of totalitarianism and stepping into the light of liberty, proudly answer: “Yet.”
And now for your Notes From the End of the Week…
Final Notes…
Earlier today, Notes Members received a full audio-video recording of this week’s event, Crisis and Opportunity at the End of the World, including a PDF of the transcript. Members can access those resources here:
Crisis & Opportunity at the End of the World - Recording and Transcript
If you’re not already a member but would like to access these resources and help support the project, please consider joining our small but growing community of free-thinkers, deep readers and cheerful skeptics, here…
Whatever you’re up to this weekend, raise a glass – of water or wine – for all that’s good and hopeful on this green earth.
And stay tuned for more Notes From the End of the World…
Cheers,
Joel Bowman
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